Why does surfing suck?

Surfing is one of the most frustrating sports in the world. Let me tell you why in a few "pain points":

  • Good surfing conditions (swell, period, wind, tide) are rarely synchronised, and when they are, it's too bad! You're either working, sleeping or on holiday far away from the beach.

  • If you don't surf or do any other sport for several weeks, you will lose a lot of stamina, which will make your next session exhausting.

  • There's always someone else taking the best waves seemingly effortlessly while you're struggling in the whitewater.

  • The ocean doesn't like you and will throw big waves at your head as you try to reach the lineup.

Nevertheless, I think surfing is the best sport in the world, so much so that it has become a lifestyle for many people:

  • The feeling of surfing is hard to describe. Once they try it, most people are hooked.

  • I don't know many surfers who stop surfing. Even when you live far away from the beach, you always come back to it. As Kelly Slater, the 11-time world surfing champion, said: "Surfing is like the mafia. Once you're in, you're in, there's no way out.".

  • Regular surfers tend to be fit and healthy.

  • Because of the image created by the surfing industry, people think you're cool, attractive and relaxed.

So yeah, surfing sucks, but it's awesome!